The Underground Railroad and the Little Calumet River

From the 1830s until the Civil War, individuals and families escaping enslavement in southern states came through this area; traveling south from Chicago and east to Detroit and freedom in Canada. They were a significant part of the 3,000 to 4,500 people escaping from slavery who came to the Chicago region in the decades before the Civil War. Many of these fugitive slaves/freedom seekers traveled overland, going directly south from the small city of Chicago and using the ferry/bridge crossing over the Little Calumet River. On occasion, they received assistance from local residents. As early as 1836-7, the Dolton family and other early settlers, and after 1853, the Ton family and other Dutch immigrants, were part of the networks of assistance called the Underground Railroad. These networks emerged across Illinois and other states in response to the decisions by thousands of people enslaved to seek their freedom, most heading for safety in Canada.

The Little Calumet River and “Riverdale Crossing”

When Chicago was first settled, a crucial element was the road to Detroit. People used the lakes and rivers, but also needed a land route to connect the early residents of Chicago with the rest of the country. The first major road ran between Detroit and Chicago and in much of Indiana and Illinois, the road was on the lake shore. In the 1820s and 30s, at times this beach road was great for wagons and stagecoaches and at other times the beaches were impassable. In 1837, a new route developed that went straight south 15 miles from the growing community of Chicago to a ferry that crossed the Little Calumet River. Within a few years, this was replaced with a toll bridge. From the beginning, this was known as the “Riverdale Crossing.” The ferry and bridge were at what is now the Indiana Avenue Bridge. The road from Chicago crossed the Little Calumet and turned to the southeast on what is now South Leyden Avenue and Lincoln Avenue and then becomes Michigan City Road running along the northern edge of the Sand Ridge Nature Center. This historic Chicago to Detroit Road became a long-distance freedom trail for probably 500 to 800 freedom seekers.
North and south of the River on Indiana Avenue and extending on South Leyden and Lincoln was the heart of the Riverdale community. This settlement was mostly homes in the 1840s and onward, with the evolution of a small commercial district by the end of the 19th century. In 1889, the area east of Indiana Avenue and north of 138th Street was annexed into Chicago. The old residential neighborhood south of the river to 138th Street was identified as the Riverdale Neighborhood separate from other neighborhoods in the Community Area [eventually these others were Altgeld Gardens, Golden Gate, and Riverside Village]. In 1892, the remaining parts of the community were divided into incorporated villages, Riverdale west of Indiana Avenue and Dolton basically east of Indiana.

After the first settlers from eastern states, the area was populated by Dutch and German immigrants. By the end of the 19th century, there were also Swedish and Irish residents drawn by the mix of employment in nearby heavy industries. In 1920 the population in this area was over 1200, and in 1940, it had reached 1500. These residents were all white. The significant change came in the 1940s with the addition of Altgeld Gardens as wartime housing established primarily for Black workers and their families.

Stops on the Little Calumet River Freedom Trail

Historic Illinois Central RR — Just west of Indiana Avenue is the mainline of the historic Illinois Central Railroad. Today this is part of the Canadian Pacific system and over this bridge crosses the METRA Electric Commuter Line. After 1856, some fugitive slaves traveled by rail coming from Cairo and other towns on the IC line in the far southern part of Illinois. Some traveled hidden and others as ticket-holders. Close to 100 fugitives traveled on this historic route through Riverdale on their way to Chicago looking for assistance to get to Canada.

Indiana Avenue Bridge – One block south of the bridge was the home of George and Olive Dolton, the Osterhoudt family lived one block north and just to the southwest was the home of the Matthews. Traveling from New England and Ohio, they settled here in 1835 and 36, and worked together to open a ferry on the river which started operations in 1836. By the next year, the road between Chicago and Detroit was realigned to use the ferry. This was replaced with a toll bridge in 1842. These were at the site of the current bridge.

Starting in 1837, the heavy traffic developing between Chicago and Detroit meant that a wide variety of wagons, buggies and stagecoaches were funneled across this ferry and bridge. For the next 20 + years, this also became the major road for the movement of fugitive slaves/freedom seekers traveling overland from Chicago. It is probably that the Doltons, Osterhoudts and Mathews assisted freedom seekers.

Dutch Immigrants & the Ton Farm — In the late 1840s, Dutch immigrants came to areas south of Chicago. Over time, these settlements became Roseland and South Holland. Among the key settlers in the region was the family of Cornelius and Maartje Kuyper, who established a farm and a general store about a half mile north of the Indiana Street bridge. They were close friends of and had come to America with Jon and Aagje Ton. In 1853, the Tons acquired property on the north side of the Little Calumet River from George Dolton. The Kuypers and the Tons were very active in assisting freedom seekers. There is a memorial garden to honor the Tons and other Dutch immigrants assisting freedom seekers located on the grounds of the First Reformed Church in South Holland, two miles directly south. The Ton Farm site was added to the National Park Service Network to Freedom listing of significant UGRR sites in 2019 and a state historic marker was dedicated in 2022.

On the Railroads — The Michigan Central Railroad and the Michigan Southern were both completed into Chicago in 1852. From that time, the railroads became an option for the movement of freedom seekers from Chicago to Detroit and from there on to Canada. In March of 1859 one of the most famous journeys by fugitive slaves involved the assistance of the radical abolitionist John Brown. Brown assisted 12 persons to escape from western Missouri and after finally arriving in Chicago, with the help of Black abolitionists they passed through here on the Michigan Central heading for Detroit. This line, now part of the New York Central system, runs close to Carver Military Academy.

Altgeld Gardens-Murray Homes – Established as wartime housing for Black industrial workers and their families in 1943-44, this was designed as a model community. Years later, because of its isolated location and surrounding industries and landfills, it was the birthplace of the environmental justice movement.

Beaubien Woods — At the start of the 20th century, leaders in Chicago were looking to save open areas around Cook County. This led in 1914 to the creation of the Cook County Forest Preserve District and by 1922, over 22,000 acres had been acquired. Beaubien Woods was added later in the 1920s and stands today with close to 300 acres along the Little Calumet River. It is the proposed site for an Underground Railroad monument and one end of the Little Calumet River Freedom Trail.